Caspian Trek is dedicated to sustainable nature tourism. We endeavour to provide a unique and special service to travellers who are looking for mountain sports, culture and relaxation in Northern Iran. We can also organize trips to other parts of Iran both in nature and in the cities.

About the hosts

Many guests have wanted to know why I came back from the UK and asked me to include a brief resume about myself in my website so here it is!

Alejandra and I met when she was doing a master’s degree in social anthropology at Goldsmith College, London. She now lives in Spain with our two children and spends the summers here in Khoonegeli. She has been a key figure in the design of the lodge.

Khoonegeli is the result of years of living in the diaspora, nostalgia and desperation to find roots or better said to get back to my roots.

In the summer of 1975 at the tender age of 7 I was sent to a Swiss boarding school for a month, I hated it. In 1977 I spent a year in England and I was beginning to grow roots until the victory of the people’s revolution in Iran culminated in our return home. The return was short lived and the start of the war with Iraq meant we were out again, this time to Vienna where I learnt German for a few months and then back to the UK where I stayed, studied, worked, and married until the eventual return in 2001. I studied in Glasgow University and graduated with a medical degree in 1993, I worked as a doctor in the NHS for almost eight years but medicine was never for me, it was too claustrophobic, too limiting in time and space, too depressing the way it was taught and practised in the West. I needed fresh air, beautiful nature not just for holidays but for living and for life. The change has not been smooth or easy but it is one’s destiny and hence rather unavoidable. I do not regret the personal revolution.

I needed to go back in time and back to nature, be amongst people from a past evolutionary stage, from tribal times, feudal times, and people with time and space to think, breathe and engage one another. I didn’t want to be asked where I was from and Iran was the only choice. My paternal grandfather, Rajabali Malaki, had owned a tea plantation for decades some 15km outside Tonekabon, a town by the Caspian Sea where I had grown up and it was passed down to me, hence the land, earth roots and then Khoonegeli was born. It is my home, my refuge, my personal and collective identity. And I enjoy sharing it with those who are sensitive enough to comprehend what has gone into it beyond the superficial aesthetics.

I need to thank a few people here for the courage they gave me in order to make the personal revolution:

The late Saeed Goudarznia, a father figure, a friend and an excellent teacher with whom I read Hafez in the pubs of London and at his home.

The late Frederick Leboyer the world renowned French Obstetrician who pioneered “A Birth without Violence” who generously gave me his time, and shared his wisdom.

Clive Eiles who I had 3 years of psychoanalysis with in south east London.

So welcome, if you are interested to discover something out of the ordinary.

Farzin Malaki

Autumn 2015

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